Matterhorn – 4478 m
The Matterhorn is one of the most iconic mountains in Europe, a stunning and dramatic peak and a sought after summit. Normally climbed via the Hornli Ridge, the climb is technically achievable to those with good fitness and stamina, as well as rock climbing and alpine experience. A head for heights is a must!
Dream Guides was incredibly proud to be named the official guiding partner for the Virgin Strive challenge back in 2014, when we guided Sam Branson and his team of ‘strivers’ up the Matterhorn.
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We split the Matterhorn course between two European alpine capitals, Chamonix and Zermatt. The first three days are spent making the most of the easy access to the high mountains that you find in Chamonix. The last three days are spent in Zermatt, the home of the Matterhorn. Both of these inspiring locations are sure to build up the necessary psyche needed for the summit push.
What's not included
Who is this for?
If you have previous experience on alpine grade AD terrain with good physical fitness, it is within your grasp!
We aim to do the Matterhorn climb towards the end of the week, after suitable preparation and acclimatisation.
Our Chamonix Classics and Swiss Classics course are ideal preparation for the Matterhorn climb week.
Accommodation and huts
Our Matterhorn courses are based in our central 3chalets in Chamonix for the first part of the week, Chalet Iceman, Chalet Slider and Chalet Viper – see summer holidays for the listings. Rooms are normally on a twin shared basis with shared bathrooms. The chalets have a fun atmosphere, there are often other like minded people staying in the chalets who are on various other courses. Chamonix town is a short 5 minutes walk away with plenty of restaurants, bars and cafes.
What to expect from mountain huts
They are basic but comfortable. They can cater for vegetarians. Food is usually on a set menu basis (3 courses in the evening, hot drink and bread/jam/cereal for breakfast). Often there is no running water and you have to buy water to drink and wash with (no showers). You can usually buy tea, coffee, wine, beer, soft drinks, chocolate bars and snacks.
Sleeping arrangements are normally dormitory style bunkbeds (eg 6 people on the bottom, 6 on the top) with blankets or duvets. No sleeping bags are needed, rather a ‘sheet sleeping bag’ should be brought. The huts provide slippers for wearing around the hut. On this course we ask the hut guardians to provide a packed lunch for the team each day.
You can expect a good atmosphere and a stunning view!
The Matterhorn – we climb the Matterhorn via the classic Hornli ridge. Dry conditions and little snow are required to make this route feasible, as it’s a long day of tricky scrambling (up to 4500m), requiring full concentration for 8 or more hours. Brilliant but not to be underestimated!
The itinerary is flexible, and weather / condition dependent, but here is a guideline of what to expect.
We meet Saturday evening to go through the weather/conditions and plan for the week. You meet your Guides and can ask them any questions
Warm up on the cosmiques aretes or similar route.
Tuesday – Wednesday:
2 days climbing around, and overnighting in, the Torino hut. Typical routes would be traversing the Entreves, the Tour Ronde and the Dent du Geant. This is the final preparation for the real thing, and great routes in themselves!
Drive to Zermatt (we organise this), take the uplift and walk to Hornli hut.
Friday – Saturday:
Climb the Matterhorn ! We return to Chamonix after the climb. We have a spare day built in to this itinerary to deal with any bad weather and maximise our chance of success.
To maximise your chance of summiting the Matterhorn it is important to get as fit as you possibly can. Good fitness will also make it more fun and less exhausting! The process of training for your goal will help you focus on your goal and having a goal will help you focus on your training. So all in all training is good!
Mountaineering is all about being able to exercise at a moderate intensity for many hours (typically 5 to 12 hours) and your training should reflect this. Probably the best training is going on long days hill walking as this simulates the real thing as closely as possible and prepares the mind (exercising for long periods in poor weather requires mental strength!).
However not everyone has the opportunity to do this and so alternatives such as jogging, cycling and gym workouts are good.
The focus should be on training Cardiovascular Endurance for long days in the mountains, and upper body strength for climbing.
For cardio cycling/running/rowing machines are much better than weight training. Try and exercise for up to a couple of hours at a time, 4 times a week. For climbing, core stability, flexibility and balance are as important as strong arms and shoulders. Don’t just lift weights!
Try yoga, swimming, pilates etc too. Remember to build up your workouts over time. If you are not used to exercising much, your muscles and joints need time to build up to avoid injury.
Try and choose an activity that you enjoy and keep a note of what you do and your times – this really helps with keeping the motivation up. If you are not used to training then your local gym will be able to advise you on a plan and schedule to help you achieve your goals.
Training does not work overnight! The fittest athletes train as part of their lifestyles and have been doing it for years.
Consider training for a good couple of months before coming out to the Alps.
The Effects of Altitude
As one climbs higher the air gets thinner and so there is less oxygen in each breath we take. The higher we go the less oxygen there is. This makes exercising much harder work than at sea level and so we have to slow down to help compensate. Because we have slowed down, we may feel colder.
Because there is less oxygen in the air as we get higher, this can lead to ‘altitude sickness’ or Acute Mountain Sickness which is like the worst hangover you have ever had (headache, nausea, weakness, fatigue, dizziness) and can develop into a very serious and even fatal (in extreme cases) problem.
To avoid these problems, enjoy the climbing and increase our chances of summiting we need to acclimatise by spending several days and nights at progressively higher altitudes, so our bodies can adapt. This is a very important part of our preparation.
Unfortunately we can’t recommend a specific brand and model for each item on the kit list, as what is available is constantly changing and, of course, different people are different shapes and sizes with different budgets! However, in general, we use and endorse Sherpa and Black Diamond products because in our experience they are excellent…
If you go to a good retailer such as Snow & Rock, explain to them you will be climbing the Matterhorn and they will be able to advise you on what is best for you. Bring this list with you…
Lastly, if necessary it is possible to rent most hardware items in Chamonix (ice axe, crampons, harness, helmet). You can hire boots too, but this is a last resort (no one likes uncomfortable boots).
1. Ice axe – for general mountaineering (at least 60cm long)
2. Crampons – 12 point crampons for general mountaineering with anti-balling plates. Whether strap on or clip on models they must fit your boots well. When buying crampons bring your boots to the shop so they can fit them for you – that way you can avoid buying incompatible ones!
3. Helmet – standard hard plastic climbing helmet.
4. Trekking Poles – optional
5. Boots – these must fit and be comfortable. We feel it is best not to rent boots. Rather buy some and have them fitted professionally – this will make your week much more comfortable, fun and blister free! Try and make sure they are broken in before the week. They should either be ‘plastic’ or high-end insulated leather (not fabric) and must be compatible with your crampons. Your boots should be stiff-soled (also known as B2 or B3 grade boots in the retail world). If your boots are not stiff enough not only will it compromise your comfort when walking/kicking steps in hard snow but also compromise your safety as crampons are more likely to fall off or even break. When buying boots bring your crampons to the shop to make sure they fit well.
6. Rucksack – 40-50L
7. Waterbottle 1L – not platypus type – they freeze and leak.
8. Harness (adjustable so that it is comfortable over all your layers), 2 screw gate karabiners, belay device, 1 8-foot sling
9. 2 pairs sunglasses (cat 4), goggles, sunhat, sunscreen, lip salve/block
10. 3 sets socks and light coloured thermal tops
11. Lightweight goretex hooded top & bottoms – make sure pockets are accessible even when wearing a harness
12. warm hat, thick gloves (eg ski gloves), thin gloves
13. Insulating layers. I use a thin ‘100’ weight fleece and a synthetic duvet jacket. I think a synthetic or down duvet jacket is perfect because you can put it over all your other layers (including goretex) when taking a break or if it is really cold without taking anything off. This is very quick and very warm and practical. If you don’t have a duvet jacket/can’t afford one then make sure you have 1 or 2 thick fleece layers instead.
14. Trousers – there are many brands of fairly windproof/shower resistant trousers for hillwalking/mountaineering.
‘Schoeller’ fabric garments are great but there lots of other good ones too. Bring a pair of lightweight thermal leggings (long johns) too – it can be chilly on summit day!
15. Personal first aid – blister kit, ibuprofen.
16. Head torch and gaiters
17. Book/iPod for spare time in huts and earplugs (there is always someone snoring at night!)
18. Sleeping bag liner (you don’t need a sleeping bag as duvets/blankets are provided in huts)
19. Cash (euros) for extra drinks / snacks in huts/ uplifts (allow €20 per hut night and €40 per uplift)
Remember kit should be lightweight but functional – you have to carry it! We can help with equipment rental in Chamonix.
To find out more about our course, availability, or to ask any questions, please get in touch through the website or by phone on +33 (0)845 527 58 12.
We take a 20% deposit to secure your place on one of our courses, and we ask for the balance to be paid 6 weeks before the course start date.
We strongly recommend getting specialist travel insurance that covers cancellation, medical and mountain rescue.
Make sure that it covers glaciated mountaineering and climbing. We recommend the Dogtag (www.dogtag.co.uk) – they have comprehensive policies and a good reputation.
Getting to Chamonix
It is best to book flights and airport transfers well in advance of your departure.
Easyjet have many cheap flights to Geneva from all over the UK. Swiss Air have cheap and convenient flights from London to Geneva.
Booking a place on a minibus airport transfer service is by far the best way to get from Geneva airport to Chamonix (it takes about an hour or so, is cost effective and is a door to door service). We can book your airport transfers at a competitive rate – just email us with your flight details…