Rhi, Jonno & Guy entering the Eugster - N face Midi

It was May 1^st 2009, and it had been a mind-blowing winter in Chamonix.  The ground was only just beginning to thaw after having been permanently blanketed since the end of November the previous year.  The roads were a mess, eroded by the tons of salt that had been pored over them over the past five months. The buds seem to be gingerly peaking their heads through like mear cats, almost conscious of a possible re-frost. End of season parties were in full swing, all buzzing on an over dose of powder, and the anticipation of summer brought a light carefree vibe to town. I had painted my blacked toenails, and binned my smelly thermals, and was ready for summer.

In the big mountains, however, another vibe was brewing. The generous snowfalls of the winter had left many lines in amazing condition; with previously un-fathomable couloirs open to consideration.  Within the small community of Chamonix skiers, steep lines were being ticked off long dreamed up wish lists.  Perfect curves were appearing on couloirs that I could not have imagined would be skied. It soon became obvious that Chamonixs skiers were keeping busy, and that spirits were high! So high that they seemed to create an energy that vibrated from the rooftops of the mountains, and settled like infectious dew, on the valley below.

I often wonder what goes through a skier’s mind when they decide to tackle a line like the North Face of the Midi. 800m of 50 -55°, 3-4 obligatory repels. A line so committing that one mistake would send you tumbling 1000 odd meters over rock and ice to a certain early grave. I definitely did not simply wake up one morning and decide to go and ski the Eugster couloir. This kind of terrain is reserved for crazy people in ski movies or early graves! At times though, one is filled with a feeling of confidence or insanity, and that day in early May entering into 800m of 100% focus seemed like the most obvious thing to do. That, and the boys said it would be fine!!

Guy skiing under the Midi lift - 800m of NO FALL ZONE in full public view!! No pressure ...

The Aiguille de Midi is the focal point of skiing and climbing in the Chamonix valley. It sits on top of the town, looking down from its 3900m height, giving life and attitude to the town of Chamonix through its umbilical cable- the most incredible invention- the Midi lift. The front face looks like a rock haven, but amongst the carnage there is, apparently, a couple of ski able lines.

The Eugster couloir is the most egotistical ski descent I can think of! There is a constant audience to your every move. The Midi lift runs up the front face transporting viewers up and down, which may well be how I survived this ridiculous line! Its one thing tumbling to your death in front of your ski buddies, but quite another in front a bunch of strangers. To add to the audiences in the cable car, the entrance into the couloir requires you to make that unnatural turn left when walking down the midi ridge. A ridge that is typically jammed with excitable skiers, chained up like convicts, all making the sensible decision to turn RIGHT! Anyone choosing the seemingly suicidal turning causes quite a stir in the line.

We hesitated a little with the decision to drop in. Conditions had been great the previous week, and although a fresh snowfall had dropped, it had been swiftly followed by a strong wind! I took a seat at the entrance whilst the wise went to check out the situation. Whilst sipping on my ginger tea, a couple of lycra clad ski- mountaineers dropped in, hopping turn to turn like dainty bunny rabbits. They made the terrain look like puffy clouds and the death-defying route took on the air of a large alpine cuddle. This was clearly not the case!

The airy view into the Eugster Couloir - only 2700m down to Cham!

Traversing onto the North face brings you onto a small platform before heading down the ridge line that weaves down to the demi lune. This is the intersection between the Malory and the Eugster, the later taking you off to the skiers left through a tricky rock passage. Half way down the next section a cliff band forces a rappel, with a couple of belay options. We chose to go skiers right to a rest spot, and we opted for two rappels in order to avoid a particularly icy area! A couple of Austrian skiers soon caught us up and effortlessly danced over the icy section to the lower belay. A few Haribos later another solo skier appeared from round the corner, ‘You haven’t seen my glove have you?’ … You would have thought someone had started a Facebook event in the Eugster that day?!

The North face of the Midi - including the Eugster

After allowing the uber-confident past, we carried on our way, into an open section that ends in another cliff band veering you off to the skiers left. There is in situ gear in place, probably due to the Facebook advertising of the event, and we kept our skies on for this narrow rappel. The last section has a slightly different aspect, which faces west and ends in another abseil, that some choose to huck, before you can head down onto the avis debris cone at the base of the route.

The wind meant that the conditions were not great, and all though I did manage some fun turns I definitely got the opportunity to perfect the classic side step! I was heavily armed with one ice axe and one whippet pole, a great invention combining ski pole with an axe head- just in case …

I am sure I would not go down in the history of female alpinism when I say, quite frankly, I have entered into some sticky steeps lines on blind love and illogical trust. But as I tick off my own spontaneous wish list, I begin to see a common theme; I walk away from every experience overwhelmed by a feeling of presence, of existing, and of survival and I start to understand the magic of steep skiing.